Quick question: overclocking performance

[Trigun]

That's only partially correct. The problem with using LLC (Load Line Calibration) is that you can get transient voltage spikes that happen after a load change and that happens to be somewhere in a ~+.05v range.

From the ~4 months that i've been researching i7, about the highest you can get on air/water 24/7 safely with LLC is around 1.4 (1.45 during spike), 1.45 without LLC. The problem with people damaging their CPU is when they bump their voltages up high and keep LLC on and then you start hitting the well over spec range of voltages ie 1.5v+ (1.55 being absolute max) and that's where people start seeing rapid degredation.

Just to note, even without using LLC and keeping your vdroop it's still possible to cause damage over the longterm via electromigration (being your vcore will be at it's highest at idle without llc). Although at the vcore your using now that won't be a problem; some people don't really pay attention however and wonder why 6 months down the road their cpu stops working even when their PC sits unused all day long.

[Cody900]

Yeah well I haven't been able to find out how much these spikes actually were increasing it by.

Good thread about it on EVGA forums here: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.asp?m=100500810 Good forum to get your info from too btw, EVGA is pretty much made for overclocking. Shamino is an EVGA employee, and shansmi can OC pretty much any i7 just from the batch number, he does so many OCs with so many different CPUs it's basically gotten to that point lol. He could help you out with some info if you need it.

Still though, I'd rather be safe than sorry, and leave it on. Quickly changing voltages up and down with lots of programs loaded and running can't be good anyway, even if it isn't pushing the voltage too high. The "green zone" for the X58 SLI, which is what forum that thread is on, starts at 1.4, and no one who uses one of these boards goes over 1.475 that's just advised as max. Guy in that thread said he never went a few notches into the green, which would of been under 1.425v, and under 1.475v during a spike, so, that doesn't work for your 1.5v theory.

[Trigun]

Think you made a typo, 4.75?
I've not seen anyone advise running at 1.5v+ 24/7 on air/water. Unless you have something constantly wicking away the heat from the CPU in the form of l2n/phase etc..

The "green zone" for the X58 SLI, which is what forum that thread is on, starts at 1.4, and no one who uses one of these boards goes over 1.475 that's just advised as max.

That's what I said?

IMO 1.45v is the max safe 24/7 voltage for 99.999% of people. I have and do read evga forums as well, and the voltages he and others on that forum are running run directly in line with what i've already suggested

[Cody900]

Yeah I meant 1.475 sorry, keep typo'ing it.

You made a typo too but I didn't bother pointing it out:

That's only partially correct. The problem with using LLC (Load Line Calibration) is that you can get transient voltage spikes that happen after a load change and that happens to be somewhere in a ~+.5v range.

You mean ~+.05v. 1.4 + 0.5 = 1.9v, no wonder their CPUs got damaged.

Anyway, temps are still fine, 65 - 68 under 100% load, 32 - 37 at idle, which is fine for me on air, and now I don't have to worry about the spiking.

[Trigun]

Ah yes, I did typo Thanks for pointing that out.

1.45 + .05 = 1.5v is what I meant

That is based on this data btw ( http://www.anandtech.com/cpuchipsets/int...i=3184&p=6 ) which highlights the relation of load changes to voltage spikes when using LLC (Load Line Calibration: For those who may have read and didn't understand the terminology)

[Cody900]

Yeah, look at that. The whole article is about how "only bad things" come from turning it off, and the "consequences" of turning VDroop and VOffset off. Even if you aren't going to a dangerously-damaging voltage, it's still not healthy for the CPU.

I'm still keeping mine on, and would recommend others to do the same.

[Butz_san]

Ok, I own a E4600 and Biostar mainboard, I easily reach 3.15 just increasing a little bit the volts, but I've read that if you change the multiplier, you can increase much more your overclocking. That's up to you, the highest temp your E4600 can take is 73°, if go your CPU go higher than that, you'll end up with a dead processor...

[baholete]

Well, i managed to do an overclock that increased my performance in pcsx2 quite a bit, to 2.89GHz but my proc temperature goes up to 70 degrees. Problem is my proc cooler is a stock one so i don't think it's safe to do any overclock with it. What do u think? Is it safe to play like this? Or do i realy REALY need a good cooler?

[Cody900]

Yeah, get a good CPU cooler is you can. It's not really recommended to OC on a stock cooler as they aren't that great. Is that 70 degrees at idle, or when playing PCSX2?

Try downloading Prime95, running a blend test, and checking your CPU temps. If Butz_san is right and your max is 73, I'd say try and stay under 65, 60 if possible.

[Trigun]

What Butz_san mention is the TCASE max (Which is the IHS - Integrated Heat Spreader), I believe the TJMAX or (Thermal Junction Max) for the e4000 series is somewhere around ~85c (Don't take my word for it on the spot. But it is definately higher than 73' on the cores)

In other words, you're not damaging your cpu at that temperature, but it's not optimal.
Your target for "Affordable" Air cooling on that processor would probably be in the range of 55-60c at load.

Like cody said, suggest you get a new heatsink/fan, any decent aftermarket will work from newegg.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6835233003 Would be a good buy, it's not too expensive and it should cool it off sufficiently.
It rivals about any of the better air setups within about ~5c

Best AIR Cooling (As in will beat most premade watercooling setups. Only setups with large radiators (2-4 (4-8 if they push/pull) 120mm fans), powerful pumps, 1/2 tubing etc.. will cool better at load.) would be a TRUE (Thermalright Ultra Extreme) 120 with Push/Pull using 2 120x38mm fans (38mm not 25mm, thicker fans generate more static air pressure which the TRUE is optimized for since it has very dense fin spacing) on top of that you would need to lap both it and possibly even the IHS (since TRUEs are notoriously warped from the factory), as well as using a bolt/backplate with penny/washer mods for added pressure. -- But then your talking about atleast ~$100 and Lots of work (Note: I did all of this.... lol) vs $30-40 (Has a mail in rebate btw) & 10min install.

Ps. With that Cooler linked above, use http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6835233019 with it. Should easily net you a few ~c more cooling as well from more pressure, and don't have to worry about possibly damaging your MB with pushpins. Bolt+Backplate > Pushpin