Is owning a PS2 recommended for using PCSX2?
#21
(11-08-2013, 10:27 AM)rama Wrote: Many legit BIOS dumps here, from as many legit consoles Smile
I managed to fetch 7x fat consoles for 20EUR the other day. They were advertised
as "for parts" so I kinda rescued them. Except for the drives they all work just fine Smile
(There's so far one GH-006 and one GH-007 boards in there, these are ancient!)

I went through about 5 PS2s before moving on to emulation, but of course for everyone that tore up I salvaged whatever I could. I had been buying them used from this one pawn shop and they knew I was good with electronics and offered to let me just have a broken one.

All that was actually broken was the controller port which is completely modular so I swapped it out and basically had a free PS2.

I remember when the drive in that one went out, I was playing Persona 4(Awesome game!), I was so close to the end, and I just kept convincing the disc drive to read for just a few more hours. Clean the lens, oil the rails, adjust the laser voltage, etc. It would still stop every few hours and I'd work on it while it was running, then reseat the disc and go on lol. It got me to the end and beyond!
[Image: XTe1j6J.png]
Gaming Rig: Intel i7 6700k @ 4.8Ghz | GTX 1070 TI | 32GB RAM | 960GB(480GB+480GB RAID0) SSD | 2x 1TB HDD
Reply

Sponsored links

#22
I really hate the optical drives in consoles. They're all proprietary and they all break easily and after relatively short use.
There's a rumor that Sony made special tweaks so a PS2 drive will last only a short time when using recordable media.
It would help a lot if we could just replace the drives with common pc parts but nope, it's got to be that specially made
and extra flimsy Sony model. You know, just so that it can break a year later again.
Reply
#23
(11-10-2013, 03:37 PM)rama Wrote: I really hate the optical drives in consoles. They're all proprietary and they all break easily and after relatively short use.
There's a rumor that Sony made special tweaks so a PS2 drive will last only a short time when using recordable media.
It would help a lot if we could just replace the drives with common pc parts but nope, it's got to be that specially made
and extra flimsy Sony model. You know, just so that it can break a year later again.

I only used recordable media on my 4th and 5th PS2s, when the third one tore up it fragged a game disc(disc did not stop spinning when I pushed eject!) I think for a while there were aftermarket laser replacements, weren't there?

However in my story above that was a burned disc. I had the best luck with Sony DVD+R burned at 4x in my LG CDVD burner with booktype set to DVD ROM. And they used to tell me on PSX Scene that DVD+R was no good for PS2 backups but I never had a single problem. I still have my self modded network adapter startup disc backup and original for modding PS2s. I actually discovered that method myself(replace an ELF on a disc with multiple ELF files, so you can launch e.g. Ulaunchelf when they swap) before it was known, but never said anything about it. Now it's pretty well known!

My first PS2 softmod I did with the independence exploit though.
[Image: XTe1j6J.png]
Gaming Rig: Intel i7 6700k @ 4.8Ghz | GTX 1070 TI | 32GB RAM | 960GB(480GB+480GB RAID0) SSD | 2x 1TB HDD
Reply
#24
This thread has kinda gone off topic so Im going to ask one quickie question.

My PS2 slim still works but for some reason it doesnt detect the hatch/lid closing properly so it either complains that I must close it or it keeps loading forever (during gameplay), the only workaround to this is putting 2kg weight on top of the lid :I The open button is also stiff and doesnt recover properly.

Is this a common problem that I could fix myself easily without having to buy spare parts ?
Excl Note to self: learn to write shorter posts
Reply
#25
There's 2 possibilities to why the lid close isn't detected. Either the bit of plastic which pushes the switch is worn/broken or the switch is faulty.

Judging from the fact it works if you put a weight on it, i'd guess the bit of plastic on the lid that presses the button is worn. If you can get it off/open you could possibly stick something to the bottom of it or on top of the switch to reduce the gap between the two, like a couple of bits of paper or something.
[Image: ref-sig-anim.gif]

Reply
#26
(11-12-2013, 12:44 PM)Thewonderboy Wrote: This thread has kinda gone off topic so Im going to ask one quickie question.

My PS2 slim still works but for some reason it doesnt detect the hatch/lid closing properly so it either complains that I must close it or it keeps loading forever (during gameplay), the only workaround to this is putting 2kg weight on top of the lid :I The open button is also stiff and doesnt recover properly.

Is this a common problem that I could fix myself easily without having to buy spare parts ?

(11-12-2013, 12:51 PM)refraction Wrote: There's 2 possibilities to why the lid close isn't detected. Either the bit of plastic which pushes the switch is worn/broken or the switch is faulty.

Judging from the fact it works if you put a weight on it, i'd guess the bit of plastic on the lid that presses the button is worn. If you can get it off/open you could possibly stick something to the bottom of it or on top of the switch to reduce the gap between the two, like a couple of bits of paper or something.

Yeah, refraction is most likely right. But I just wanted to point out/ask:

Don't the PS2 slim models have like "eye" sensors that detect when the lid is opened too? I never had a slim, but I remember reading you had to cover those with tape in order to get disc swap tricks to work.
[Image: XTe1j6J.png]
Gaming Rig: Intel i7 6700k @ 4.8Ghz | GTX 1070 TI | 32GB RAM | 960GB(480GB+480GB RAID0) SSD | 2x 1TB HDD
Reply
#27
I think they are all physical sensors.

seems to be a nice tutorial here: http://wololo.net/talk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9575

There's a lot about freemcboot there too, so you can skip most of it, just go down to the picture of the slim drive ;p
[Image: ref-sig-anim.gif]

Reply
#28
(11-12-2013, 07:32 PM)Blyss Sarania Wrote: Don't the PS2 slim models have like "eye" sensors that detect when the lid is opened too? I never had a slim, but I remember reading you had to cover those with tape in order to get disc swap tricks to work.

Don't see any reason why it wouldn't be as simple as those on the PS1 phat\slim...just a simple button that connect\disconnect paths

The lid is pushing the button down.
Is you are still using PS2 to play games,the best thing you can do is to find a phat PS2,network adapter and ide hdd...you'll forget about laser\loading times problems
Reply
#29
(11-13-2013, 12:43 AM)refraction Wrote: I think they are all physical sensors.

seems to be a nice tutorial here: http://wololo.net/talk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=9575

There's a lot about freemcboot there too, so you can skip most of it, just go down to the picture of the slim drive ;p

You are right, like I said I never had a slim, I just assumed they were optical sensors.

My bad.
[Image: XTe1j6J.png]
Gaming Rig: Intel i7 6700k @ 4.8Ghz | GTX 1070 TI | 32GB RAM | 960GB(480GB+480GB RAID0) SSD | 2x 1TB HDD
Reply
#30
(11-12-2013, 12:51 PM)refraction Wrote: There's 2 possibilities to why the lid close isn't detected. Either the bit of plastic which pushes the switch is worn/broken or the switch is faulty.

Judging from the fact it works if you put a weight on it, i'd guess the bit of plastic on the lid that presses the button is worn. If you can get it off/open you could possibly stick something to the bottom of it or on top of the switch to reduce the gap between the two, like a couple of bits of paper or something.

What about a drop of hotglue on the part that is suposed to press the button and then wait it to solidify ? next time I play on my slim, I'll check if its worn off.

Though I think it could have something to do with the button itself. 3 years ago I noticed that the open button was "stiff" and didnt recover properly but if I waited few seconds (keeping the lid down) it eventualy recovered and kept the lid closed. Later on when it got worse I had to aid the button with my nail by shifting it to right so it locked faster.

(11-13-2013, 01:00 AM)vsub Wrote: Don't see any reason why it wouldn't be as simple as those on the PS1 phat\slim...just a simple button that connect\disconnect paths

The lid is pushing the button down.
Is you are still using PS2 to play games,the best thing you can do is to find a phat PS2,network adapter and ide hdd...you'll forget about laser\loading times problems

I actualy own phat PS2 too because these two PS2's are in different locations. I always treated them as extremely fragile pieces of technology so ofcourse I had to have two so I wouldnt have to move the other Happy

I havent really messed around with the sensors so I dont know/remember but last time I watched a tutorial, I swear that the guide showed how to block 3 sensors inside PS2 slim. Dunno if they are all essential for the disc swap or not.
Excl Note to self: learn to write shorter posts
Reply




Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)