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(01-19-2014, 02:28 AM)eyencee Wrote: [ -> ]also to maintain your ds4 battery life its best to fully drain it after every full charge otherwise your battery life will get progressively shorter


This is wrong. The DS4 battery is a lithium ion battery, same as your cell phone. These batteries behave in the opposite way you are describing. People still think you need to drain the batteries down before charging because of the old NiCAD batteries were this way. Those NICADs haven't been used in nearly a decade.

The best way to treat a LiOn battery is to charge it whenever you can, and never let it drop below 30%. You also don't have to worry about overcharging or anything like that because the mechanisms for charging will stop the charge once it reaches full (just like any smartphone charger built in the last 5 or more years).

Edit: oh, and if you plan to store a LiON battery for a month or longer, you want to leave it about 40%, this would include not using it at all, in the case of leaving it plugged in ALL the time, you should cycle it at least once a month (meaning to unplug it and use it, let it drain anywhere from 60% down to 30% and recharge). Some people consider 30% too low btw... If you wonder about any of this info, feel free to do some research, but make sure you read around, because like I said, there's a lot of misinfo because people think all rechargables behave like the old NiCAD batteries. Wikipedia is a good place to start. Also, fwiw NiMH batteries behave very similar to LiON.

Edit 2: there is a memory effect with LiON batteries but it is really small and doesnt work the same way as older batteries (doesn't actually hurt the REAL capacity, only cycles do)... if you start noticing an issue with battery capacity not lasting as long as normal (and no environmental variables have changed, such as the battery being hotter than normal (wintertime with heater running, or hot summer with no AC), or extra brightness from the LED, extra useage ect... then and only then should you do a complete discharge (until the controller shuts itself off [it will not fully discharge as that would mean you couldn't charge it anymore]) and then charge it back up. I could post some links to really technical papers about this, but I'm sure it would be over the heads of the majority of people reading this. Research away if you are interested... the internet is at your disposal, just make sure to read many sources and qualify the information!
Is there any plans for streaming audio to the 3.5mm jack on the DS4? would turn any wired set of headphones into pseudo-wireless Biggrin
(01-19-2014, 05:31 AM)ressurrectin Wrote: [ -> ]Is there any plans for streaming audio to the 3.5mm jack on the DS4? would turn any wired set of headphones into pseudo-wireless Biggrin

Of course, but this will most likely involve a driver of some sort, similar to a bluetooth headset. It's being looked into using some reverse engineering of the way it works with the PS4. No time frame on it from what I have heard yet, it might be challenging, or we may get lucky, anything can happen.
(01-19-2014, 12:10 AM)electrobrains Wrote: [ -> ]I don't recommend the old 1.1 Beta versions. I have fixed a tremendous number of latency issues and would not expect you to be happy with the performance of the old versions if you actually tried both to see the difference. Use 1.1.2 and let me know if anything does not work that still worked in a Beta.

Then why isn't it updated in the OP? Is it a hacked version? Currently I have this hooked up via USB and no issues. Works in all games, no latency, or double input, or anything odd, so I am hesitant to change anything, but people are saying it's a huge upgrade, so it's strange to me.

So I decided to update to the one you posted.

Now, the controller doesn't work in most things, and if it does, it just constantly pans the camera.
Just played Dark Souls for a while with 1.1.2, and I'm getting lag from both wired and wireless connections that I wasn't getting in the original beta versions. Exclusive Access enabled.
(01-19-2014, 06:38 AM)Mkilbride Wrote: [ -> ]Then why isn't it updated in the OP? Is it a hacked version? Currently I have this hooked up via USB and no issues. Works in all games, no latency, or double input, or anything odd, so I am hesitant to change anything, but people are saying it's a huge upgrade, so it's strange to me.

So I decided to update to the one you posted.

Now, the controller doesn't work in most things, and if it does, it just constantly pans the camera.

The source code has been opened up to allow other developers to fork the project... so far electrobrains is the only publicly shared fork. You can find his versions in posts here in the thread. Eventually once things have been finalized a bit more they will be merged into the main source.

So the most up to date version that has been shared is the one that electrobrains is working on, and has posted in this thread.

Edit: maybe its time to create new threads for the forked projects?

Edit 2: Also, from what I understand most of the changes have been made on the bluetooth side of things... I haven't been testing USB personally so I can't speak to any issues on that end, but over BT things seem to be working fine for me.
Posting a new version. Only functional changes are that battery flash begins at 50% and goes more quickly up through 10% battery level remaining, and all of the LED color as battery LED indicator transitions are enabled by default. The controllers are their normal colors but fade to a dim version of them through 10%. LED flashing remains off by default to not unintentionally trigger epileptic seizures.

(01-19-2014, 06:38 AM)Mkilbride Wrote: [ -> ]Then why isn't it updated in the OP? Is it a hacked version? Currently I have this hooked up via USB and no issues. Works in all games, no latency, or double input, or anything odd, so I am hesitant to change anything, but people are saying it's a huge upgrade, so it's strange to me.

So I decided to update to the one you posted.

Now, the controller doesn't work in most things, and if it does, it just constantly pans the camera.

I changed it to not use exclusive access by default. Check the box on the window that indicates that you should check it if you encounter compatibility issues.
(01-19-2014, 07:57 AM)pedrovay2003 Wrote: [ -> ]Just played Dark Souls for a while with 1.1.2, and I'm getting lag from both wired and wireless connections that I wasn't getting in the original beta versions. Exclusive Access enabled.

Is this on Windows 7 or 8? Try a very minor variant of the 1.1.3 build -- I turned back on the HID queue flushing so you can see if that changes how things work for you. It's just a different ScpControl.dll, other files remain the same.
(01-19-2014, 09:23 AM)electrobrains Wrote: [ -> ]Is this on Windows 7 or 8? Try a very minor variant of the 1.1.3 build -- I turned back on the HID queue flushing so you can see if that changes how things work for you. It's just a different ScpControl.dll, other files remain the same.

Windows 7. And that DLL actually did work, yes, thank you; no more lag!

I'm having a new issue now, though: In 1.1.3, I can't adjust the LED color or brightness anymore, neither wired nor wirelessly.
(01-19-2014, 09:43 AM)pedrovay2003 Wrote: [ -> ]Windows 7. And that DLL actually did work, yes, thank you; no more lag!

I'm having a new issue now, though: In 1.1.3, I can't adjust the LED color or brightness anymore, neither wired nor wirelessly.

Confirming that none of the color sliders are working anymore unless you stop and restart in the tool.

Also, another bug I keep forgetting to mention, if you turn off the controller without first pressing stop the tool freezes up until you turn the controller back on.